🚀 Rev Up Your Ride with KIPA's Carburetor Upgrade!
The KIPA Carburetor is a top-quality, CNC-machined replacement designed for Ford inline 6-cylinder engines from 1957 to 1962. This universal 1-barrel carburetor features a manual choke and is engineered for optimal performance, ensuring your vehicle runs smoothly and efficiently. The package includes a new mounting gasket, fuel filter, and a carbon dirt jet cleaner tool kit for easy maintenance.
Manufacturer | KIPA |
Brand | kipa |
Item Weight | 3.14 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 6.1 x 5.5 x 4.7 inches |
Exterior | Zinc |
Manufacturer Part Number | 1904 |
T**.
Excellent budget friendly carburetor
Was a little nervous about buying this carb, but was pleasantly surprised after installing on a 57 ford 223 with the load o matic distributor. That had been sitting in the woods for the last 20 years. Got the engine running, but the original holley 1904 was history. Bought this as the replacement and she fired right up. Didn't have to swap the carb bases for the original with the power valve. Worked right out of the box. Took her for the first drive and was quite peppy with this new carb. Only issue I had was the bottom of the air cleaner was barely hitting the choke linkage. And the choke plate being more square shaped was barely hitting the inside flange of the air cleaner. A little finessing with a punch and hammer, quickly solved those issues. Overall, very satisfied with the quality and the price. Would definitely buy again.
A**D
Good value
Used on a 1960 Ford Falcon. Fit well, no major modifications needed, fired right up. Good value.
T**
Way better than a Carter YFA
I have a 63 f100 with a 200 ci bored 0.60 over to a 269. I had a carter yfa on it and it ran okay but as the engine got out of its break in period it started flooding, too much cfm. I had a 170 parts engine with a carter yf and I rebuilt it but it ran really lean and It wouldn't rich out much less idle without the help of the yfas parts.I soon found this carb and was hesitant to buy it being that I never had much luck with buying carburetors. But believe me!When I mounted it filled up the fuel bowl adjusted the timing and spun it over, it ran like a sowing machine, a carter can't compare to this carb.If I ever decide to fix the 170 if I don't rob the parts off of it I WILL BE BUYING AGAIN.
M**N
Runs great when installed. Pain to convert choke and throttle to other side. 63 Scout
Installed on '63 Scout 80. 152 4 cyl. Here are my thoughts:Item came boxed and padded nicely. Included filter was useless. Gasket was useless as well since it has a giant "X" in it that allows air to leak. Had some included cleaning brushes that will be nice when it's time to clean.Install - I knew it would take some work. Knowing what I know now, it would only be an hour of work, but it took me the better part of two afternoons to figure out how to make it fit. Here's what I did...(hope to save someone else some work by putting a description).Choke: 1. Remove the screw that holds the choke cam in place. 2. Pull off the cam plus the spring and other part. Hint. Take a picture before hand so you know how the spring goes back. 3. use a dremel tool to remove the washer that holds the back of the post that the end of the choke cable attaches to (just grind a small slit in the washer and bend it out of place). 4. drill a hole and ream to the proper size to relocate the post. Note: I just estimated the location based on how much throw my choke cable needed. 5. place post on cam in new hole and crimp back washer into place 6. flip the bracket from left to right. It's actually got screw holes that line up perfectly. 7. With a pair of pliers, bend the end of the bracket to line up with the post.Throttle: This one was harder to figure out. 1. Remove the throttle body. 2. Remove the butterfly plate by unscrewing two screws. 3. Slide the now bare axle out, along with the plate that forms the linkage to the throttle. 4. Hack saw off the bottom "appendage" from the plate (ie the part that forms the linkage to the throttle). 5. Place in vice and put two 90 degree bends into it to form a U shape. 6. Drill holes through the new U shape and through the remaining plate. Connect with small bolts. 7. Reassemble everything.Vacuum and Fuel Lines: Fuel line fit perfectly. Vacuum line was previously a threaded hard line from the vacuum advance. I had to cut the hard line and used vacuum hose.One everything was assembled, I was curious to see how it worked. I've got an electric aftermarket fuel pump, so i turned that on and got the fuel bowl filled. Tested a couple of pumps to make sure it was spraying nicely (it was), and then fired it up.Old carb would need to crank for 15-20 seconds before even starting to catch (if I was lucky). This fired up instantly. Once running, it sounded quieter and smoother than before. Almost a purr. Got the idle adjusted once it was warm and then went out for a drive. Smoother, peppier, more power and all around better than the original leaky 1904. I'm back in love with my Scout again.SO.....quality seems decent on some parts, but lax on others. There were a few concerns. The plastic cam that actuates the accelerator pump is a real turn off. The screw that holds the choke cable sheath in place was almost impossible to get undone. Once loose, it was OK, but I almost destroyed it to get it unstuck. The steel that I was bending or drilling during the fabrication stage was all fairly cheap grade. Easy to machine, but not very comforting for long term durability.Would I buy it again? Yes. For the price, it's a great value. Knowing the steps for the conversion, it would be a breeze to do again. Just took a while and some frustration the first time around to figure it out. Hope my long diatribe saves someone else some time (and frustration).
T**E
Cracked housing. Leaks. Fire hazard
The carb worked fine. But after a few months I noticed gas dripping at the bowl. Ininially thought it was a bad gasket. But turned out to me a cracked housing.Perhaps a bad casting, but I would like a replacement.
J**G
Works great and cheap!!
Put this on a 1958 Ford 223 to replace the worn out Holley1904. It has worked great so far.
S**R
Worked great on my 1962 223 F350
I bought this to run on my truck while I was waiting for the O.G. Holley to be rebuilt. Actually runs better out of the box than the rebuild. I want the original equipment otherwise I would leave this one on.
T**M
Great carburetor
I installed this carb on a 1964 Scout 80, replacing a leaky 1904 Holley. I knew ahead of time that the linkage was opposite of my existing setup but I was willing to tackle that endeavor. Installation went well but I noticed the enclosed gasket could not be used because the "X" allowed air to enter between the manifold and base. Upon installation I found that the fuel bowl float was sticking and was not allowing fuel into the bowl, (either from factory or shipping). After that was resolved the old International 152cid fired right up and it purrs like a kitten. At this point I highly recommend this carb. It is not a name brand top tier unit so time will tell if it lasts and I will update as needed, but as of now the ease of installation and the pricepoint CAN NOT be beat.
Trustpilot
1 week ago
2 months ago